Checking In: Macau
Checking Out: Las Vegas

A couple of months ago an old friend, now living in Hong Kong, wrote me an e-mail about coming out to San Francisco. Here is how he opened his message:

Greetings from the Venetian Hotel in Macau, now the gambling capital of the world in terms of revenue. This place sucks and only reinforces in my mind why I always avoided Las Vegas.

I have to admit, at the time, Macau didn’t register on my radar. But in the following months it started popping up everywhere; in conversation, in newspaper articles, on the radio and online. Macau’s sudden and constant presence in my consciousness was no coincidence. As my friend pointed out in his scathing review, Macau officially surpassed Las Vegas as the World Champion of gaming revenue in 2006, and it continues to out-earn the struggling dessert city by increasing margins. Naturally, Las Vegas casino owners have flocked to Macau to get in on the game.  According to the Gaming Inspection and Coordination Bureau of Macau, the number of casinos in the former Portuguese colony more than doubled over the past five years. To give you an idea of how Macau became the Vegas of the East—I mean the world—I’ve put together a point-by-point comparison of the world’s two most successful sin cities.

The History
Macau: Macau has a long history in trade dating back to the Silk Road and the Roman Empire. In the 1500s, the Portuguese settled the area to benefit their own trade, butchering the name A Ma Gao, and erecting their own Westernized trade colony, Macau. In December 1999, the Portuguese government returned partial control to China under the “one country, two systems” formula, recreating Macau as a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China. However, before they threw in the towel, Portugal legalized gambling in Macua, setting it up to become the gaming mecca of the East.
Las Vegas: The Spanish first discovered the Las Vegas Valley in 1829, but Vegas wouldn’t officially become a city until the early 1800s, with the establishment of railways. Strangely, in 1910, the State of Nevada outlawed gambling. Twenty years later, the state uncorked the damn, and gambling was legal again. That year, the first gambling license was issued, and by the mid-50s, Las Vegas had become the gambling center of the world.

The Setting
Macau: Located on the western bank of the Pearl River Delta on the southeast coast of China, Macau enjoys a subtropical climate with cool winters and warm summers. Macau’s mainland is connected to the islands of Taipei and Coloane by three bridges.
Las Vegas: Located in the desert of the southwestern United States, in the Las Vegas Valley, this sandy city is one hot mother. Really. Summer temperatures typically exceed 100 degrees. Thank God for air conditioning.

The People
Macau: Population close to 550,000. About 94% are ethnic Chinese.
Vegas: Population exceeds 500,000. Nearly 70% of the population is white.

The Development
Macau: In 2001, Macau opened its local gaming industry to foreign competition. The following year the Chinese government decided to loosen travel restrictions, opening doors not only to casino developers, but also to the tourists who would make those casinos viable. By 2006, Macau had surpassed the Vegas strip in terms of revenue. Today, everyone from Hugh Hefner to Sheldon Adelson, owner of the Venetian and the Sands, are turning their eyes and wallets toward Macau.
Las Vegas: Unfortunately, Las Vegas is also in a major development boom, which wouldn’t be a problem if gambling hadn’t reached an all time low. Add to that growing caution among investors and bankers, and you’ve got a whole world of hurt. Many Las Vegas casino owners are currently piled under millions—if not billions—in debt, which might explain their interest in the East.

The Underbelly
Macau: Prostitution*, human trafficking, money laundering and organized crime plague the booming gaming city.
Vegas: Ditto.

* Prostitution is legal in Macau; pimping, however, is not.

Checking In: Dalmatia
Checking Out: Cotê d’Azur

Over a thousand miles across the European continent from the crowded Côte d’Azur lies a small Democratic nation once ruled by a tyrannical dictator. Located just across the Adriatic from Italy, Croatia is poised to become one of the first former-Yugoslav republics to join the E.U. As the country rises from the ashes of Communist rule, its tourist industry is beginning to heat up. Today Croatia provides a rich and beautiful alternative to the over-populated beaches of Western Europe.

Ever since the E.U.formed, it seems the American dollar just can’t catch a break against the Euro. Unfortunately for Croatia—but lucky for you—the country has yet to be admitted into the union, which means an exchange rate in America’s favor. Finally. The Croatian Kuna is about 4.60 to the dollar. You may be able to live like a king in Croatia today but times are changing, and with a Democratic Croatia in full swing, it’s only a matter of years before the E.U. accepts the nation as a member. The expected date of entry is 2010.

Until then, you can spend to your hearts desire and never break the bank—as long as you exclude airfare, of course. Croatia’s coast, also known as Dalmatia, boasts a pleasant Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild winters. Perfect for boating or throwing back shots of rakija—a brandy popular in Croatia. The Dalmatian coast has garnered a reputation as one of the world’s most beautiful, dotted with ancient cities, pristine beaches and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Lodging ranges from stoic, communist-era hotels to family run bed and breakfasts, where travelers can rent a room for as little as $40.

Dalmatian cuisine is most closely associated with other Mediterranean gastronomy. Fresh fish is either roasted or grilled, using a number of different methods and types of wood to capture the desired flavor. As in Italy, olive oil is an important ingredient in most Croatian cuisine. Like the French, Croats pride themselves on their wine. Zinfandel grapes originated from Dalmatia, but their province was unknown until the 1990s.  Grape cultivation in the region dates back before the Roman Empire, so you can bet that at least a few vintners have figured out how to make a good bottle.

Croatia is a far cry from the densely populated beaches of the French Riviera, but the similarities are striking; a gorgeous coast, delicious food and wine , Mediterranean climate and lavish accommodations. Unlike the Côte d’Azur, however, the Dalmatian coast is affordable and breathable. If it’s rest and relaxation you seek whilst on vacation, forget the hustle and bustle of the Riviera and head east for Dalmatia.

Checking In: Living like a local
Checking Out: Living like a king

Sometimes the lap of luxury is just a little too comfortable. Luxury hotels, five-star restaurants and designer boutiques, while nice, hold few surprises. You get what you pay for, and it’s almost always good. But over time, even the finer things in life get old, and eventually every city starts to look the same. If you can’t tell the difference between Paris and Dubai anymore, perhaps it’s time to step out of the VIP lounge and start living life the way the locals do.

Now, there are a few different ways to experience life as a local. Of course you can do all of your planning digitally—the Internet is teeming with user-generated review sites like Yelp—but that takes the fun and spontaneity out of discovering a new place. Anyway, do you really want to put your trust in someone who lives their life behind a computer writing reviews that no one will ever read or pay for?

The point of pursuing life like a local is to truly experience the city. You’re not going to have an authentic experience until you’ve mingled with the townies. If you’ve got friends or family who live in your desired destination, you’ve got an automatic in. Even if you’re not on the same page, they can probably connect you with someone who is. Similarly, if you know someone who’s traveled to your desired destination, you can at least avoid the tourist traps that they fell prey to. If you can glean the name of a solid bar or restaurant that’s characteristic of the area, and has a young wait staff, you’re one step closer to shedding the trappings of tourism.

Waiters, cooks and bartenders are, more often than not, the keepers of cool in a major urban area. They’re young, adventurous, and most importantly, well connected. They know where to go, at what hour, and on which days. If you have a problem talking to the help, there’s no helping you. Stick to your caviar and champagne and stay out of the streets. Service industry folks can smell a snob from miles away. But if you can find a way to engage the staff, shake them down for a little info. If you’re nice, and look like a good tipper, you’ll be living like a local in no time.

Once you’re in, just do what comes naturally. Make a point to stay away from chain restaurants and hotels, do some grocery shopping in the local market, and support small businesses. Never wear khaki pants or visors, and keep the shutter bugging to a minimum. If you feel like you’re still not getting it, take an observation day. Make yourself a picnic at a local park and people watch.

Traveling today is just too easy— especially for the monetarily blessed. But a hefty bank statement shouldn’t weigh you down. The next time you travel, try shedding luxury for authenticity. The caviar and champagne will still be there when you get home.

Checking In: Tallinn
Checking Out: Prague

Prague is so 2002. When I was in college, one of the pre-requisites for cool was a summer vacation to Prague, but like every other indicator of cool, Prague eventually lost its edge. It was as if the capital of the Czech Republic were an indie rock band that had finally made it to MTV. Sure, everyone knew about it, but it was no longer a secret between friends—something that the cool kids could claim for their own. Prague was co-opted by the man, and the young and hip were forced to find another place to hang their skinny jeans.

Tallinn, Estonia might seem like an unlikely home for cool, but its nightlife and restaurant scenes, combined with a killer conversion rate, have solidified it as the next destination for the international party set. The New York Times named it the “Party Capital of the Year” in 2006, and Laurence Shorter dedicated an entire volume of his Hedonist’s Guides to the city. Over the past few years, Tallinn has become known as much for its medieval architecture as it has for its club scene.

Brits and Finns pour in daily to take advantage of the nightlife here. The cheap liquor and anything-goes attitude have established the Estonian capital as the go-to party town of the Baltics. There are Irish style pubs like Molley Malone’s and O’Malley’s; lounges like Pegasus and R.I.F.F.; and dives like the bar in the experimental Von Krahl theater. There’s even a Depeche Mode themed pub, aptly named Depeche Mode Baar.

For those who like to cram a little culture between pints, Tallinn touts a UNESCO-listed Old Town and an impressive roster of museums and galleries. Along with a slew of medieval landmarks, the city is home to the Museum of Applied Art and Design, The Estonian Architecture Museum, and the Haus Gallery, which specializes in Estonian art from the 19th Century. It even has its own Opera House.

So if you’re dying to one-up all the folks who’ve sworn their party allegiance to Prague, hit Tallinn. It might not have the same name recognition, but isn’t that the point?